Celebrating Over 40 Years
"Safe Guarding What You Value Most"
Bats
Common names: Big brown bat / Little brown bat
Biology:
- Big brown bat
- Adult wing span: 13 to 16 inches
- Body length: 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches
- Body coloration: Dark brown, reddish-brown or light brown
- Gestation period: 60 days
- Breeding season: Autumn
- Birthing season: May through June (1 young per female)
- Age at which young are weaned: 3 to 4 weeks
- Activity period: Night
- Roost or colony size: 20 to 500 females
- Autumn & winter behavior: Hibernate in homes, buildings, storm sewers, caves and mines
- Primary diet: Moths, flies, beetles, mayflies, stoneflies, winged ants, and other small flying insects
- Adult wing span: 9 to 11 inches
- Body length: 2 1/2 to 4 inches
- Body coloration: Dark brown, reddish-brown or pale tan
- Gestation period: 60 days
- Breeding season: Autumn
- Birthing season: May through July (1 young per female)
- Age at which young are weaned: 14 days
- Activity period: Night
- Roost or colony size: Hundreds to thousands
- Autumn & winter behavior: Migrate to winter roosts; hibernate in caves and mines
- Primary diet: Moths, crane flies, beetles, mayflies, gnats and other small flying insects
CONTROL:
Harassment / Intimidation Electronic devices and light: Ultrasonic transmitter devices High frequency sound emission has been advocated by some sources to repel bats from premises; however, there is insufficient data at present to demonstrate efficacy. Most tests of such devices have been disappointing. Floodlights strung through an infested attic to illuminate all bat roosting sites may cause the bats to leave and seek a new location. Some authorities have found that populations of bat nurseries can be substantially reduced by bright artificial lighting in roosting sites. This method is believed most effective if done shortly after migratory bats arrive. In some situations, it is impossible to direct light to all possible roosting locations, such as in an attic, so the technique may not be effective in some types of structures. Conversely, white incandescent and mercury vapor lamps secured to the outside surfaces of buildings actually attract moths, beetles, mayflies and other insect prey sought after by bats, thereby encouraging bat activity nearby to such buildings.
Habitat Modification: If a bat is discovered indoors, a simple solution that allows the bat an opportunity to leave is to open the windows and doors. Lights indoors should be turned off or dimmed. Outdoor lights on buildings and residences should radiate yellow rather than white light. Yellow light attracts fewer night-flying insects which bats prey upon. Typical light bulbs and mercury vapor lamps are attractive to night-flying insects. Yellow “bug lights” and sodium vapor lamps are not attractive.
Physical / Mechanical Control
Exclusion: Exclusion is currently the recommended method of resolving most bat problems. A colony of bats or a few individuals of a solitary species may be excluded from a building through their removal and bat-proofing. Bat colonies are easier to dislodge from a roosting site if efforts are made soon after they initially take up residence. The longer a bat colony is permitted to exist at one location, the more difficult it may be to expel them from the building. Additionally, the colony may grow in size each year. Bats are most difficult to exclude from some large multistory buildings, such as warehouses and factories, that have many crevices and other places of concealment, and when semi-open roosting sites exist, such as large porches or roofs projecting over loading docks. Where ample habitat is found, a bat colony displaced from one area of a building may simply move to another area. If a seasonal infestation is tolerated for a time, the building manager may be relieved when the bats leave, believing the problem has disappeared. It is unwise, however, to assume that they will not return, because they frequently return year after year to the same site. One of the easiest times to bat-proof a building is after the bats have left for the season. To exclude most bat species from a building, openings larger than 3/8 inch must be closed to prevent access. Hardware cloth (1/4-inch mesh) or sheet metal are the materials used most often to close entrances, although softer building materials are also useful, such as aluminum flashing, particle board, and plywood. These materials can be fastened to the building using a heavy-duty staple gun or cordless screwdriver and wood screws. Unlike rodents, bats cannot gnaw their way through softer building materials, which are easier to work with and may more closely match the natural texture of the building. An effective way of sealing or filling voids within walls occupied by bats is to inject one of the newer types of wall insulation foams through holes bored into the wall. The work should be completed during the evening after the bats have left to feed. If foam or other loose-type insulation is used, be certain that any substantial amount of droppings are first removed and not just covered over, for objectionable odors may continue. Quick-setting hard putty can be used to close some small openings. Sealants, caulking compound, weather stripping or equivalent materials are effective for closing long, narrow cracks. Copper mesh or large stainless-steel scouring pads (which do not cause rust stains) are useful for temporarily plugging openings in Spanish tile roofs. Such openings can later be sealed with mortar When bat-proofing, the pest management professional should pay particular attention to chimneys, gable and soffit vents, cornices, warped siding and flashing, stone and brick veneer gaps, shake siding, fascia board gaps and utility penetrations.
Net curtain barriers: Where sanitation or public health reasons require that bats be eliminated immediately and bat-proofing is not readily achieved, netting over entire sides of buildings, from the roof line down, may be necessary until more effective measures can be completed.
Hand-removal: Hand collection is effective for removing the occasional bat from the living and work spaces in residences and commercial buildings; however, it is a labor-intensive approach to resolving a bat roosting problem and may also increase exposure of the trapper to rabid bats. An insect collecting net is a handy tool for collecting occasional bats that are flying about inside the living and work spaces of buildings.
Bat doors: Bat-proofing is difficult while a colony still infests a building and must be completed in two or more stages: Seal all bat entries except one or two of the principal openings; wait for several days, then make the final closures about one-half hour after dark, presumably when all bats are out of the building. Worker safety and the fear of high ladder work at night to close the last exit hole is sometimes a concern. A one-way door (bat door) device can purchased commercially (ready-built) or constructed that will permit the bats to escape during the evening but prevent them from reentering the roost. Where many exit holes exist, the same one-way passage of the bats can be accomplished by using light-weight plastic bird netting. The bats crawl out under the netting and are blocked by the netting when they attempt to reenter the opening to their roost. The returning bats that do not disperse to other areas may cluster or flounder about the plugged entry points. Such bats can be carefully collected, taking precautions to avoid bites, and disposed of properly. The building should be watched for several evenings at dusk to be sure the bats have not found an entry which may have been overlooked. The advantage to using exclusion devices or netting as a one-way door is that all of the work, including subsequent closing of entry points, can be completed during the daytime. Depending on species and time of year (particularly from early to mid-summer), there is always the possibility that some young may be present in the colony. They could be sealed in by bat-proofing and will subsequently die. Their carcasses may create odor and secondary pest problems. Several industrial deodorizing products are commercially available to help counter such odors, if retrieving the carcasses is impossible. These products may also help relieve the objectionable odor that remains from bat urine and guano even after the bats are gone and the accumulated guano has been removed. If possible, performing bat colony exclusion should be avoided during the period of maternity roosts and scheduled for later summer or fall.
CHEMICAL CONTROL
Repellents: Bats are, to a degree, repelled by the odor of naphthalene (crystals or flakes), the only EPA-registered repellent for indoor bat roosts. Naphthalene is potentially more effective in relatively confined air spaces, such as wall voids and poorly-ventilated attics and is much less effective in well-ventilated attics, soffits and barn lofts. Rottler does not recommend the use of these volatile compounds. Humans should avoid inhaling concentrated naphthalene (mothball) vapors as this compound is under suspicion by some state regulatory agencies of being a carcinogen.
Toxicants: No lethal pesticides are EPA-registered for bat control.